Normalizing Frizz
For the sake of being on the same page, I’m going to refer to frizz in this post using the definition I was taught by Milbon. Frizz is flyaway hair that is misaligned with the surrounding hair, appearing fuzzy or static-like due to the way hair interacts with ambient moisture in the air. The type of frizz we intentionally create—an aesthetic, functional texture achieved through teasing, backcombing, fluffing, hairspray, salt spray, etc.—is not what I’m referring to here.
Oftentimes in the world of curly products, we see terms like “anti-frizz” or “frizz control.” Frizz is always framed as something to avoid or eliminate. But is something actually wrong with frizz? Is frizz bad? Marketing would certainly have us believe so, but the truth is: frizz is not inherently bad. It’s a natural occurrence that comes with having any degree of natural movement in the hair, such as waves or curls.
Curly hair has fewer bonding properties than naturally straight hair. Typically, hair has three layers: the medulla (which some people don’t have), the cortex, and the cuticle—the outermost layer. The cuticle is what commercial beauty products primarily interact with. Fewer bonding properties mean there are more openings in the cuticle layer. These openings allow the moisture in our hair to interact with the environment. That interaction is what creates frizz. The strands lift outward as they interact with or seek out water, much like how plants reach and lean toward the sun.
While a compromised cuticle—caused by heat stress, chemical services, and/or neglect—can become more frizzy as a sign of damage, frizz itself does not inherently mean damage.
Part 1 - Aesthetic
So why fight frizz in the case of healthy hair? If it’s not a bad thing—aside from obvious cases of damage—then the answer is simple: it’s purely an aesthetic choice. You know that age-old saying about beauty being in the eye of the beholder? Whatever we decide is “beautiful” is entirely made up.
So who gets to be the trendsetter? We “fight frizz” because it doesn’t align with what we’ve been conditioned to believe is beautiful. Sleek, shiny, lighter, and brighter is what we’ve been spoon-fed our whole lives. Frizz refracts light. Frizzy curls are not shiny. And yet we’re still trying to fit versions of ourselves into a box that was never made for us.
It’s time to rewrite the beauty standard. Take the Afro, for example—it’s not meant to be shiny. It’s natural hair worn as pure, glorious static. A classic, stunning, and bold look.
The Afro Movement of the ’70s was a moment when Black culture collectively decided they’d had enough of the pressure to assimilate to Eurocentric beauty standards. It was fundamentally about Blackness—a declaration of beauty through resistance and radical self-love. This movement was deeply intertwined with Black Power and second-wave feminism, during which many people were waking up to what it meant to exist at the intersection of multiple oppressed identities.
For example, a Black man may experience prejudice because of the color of his skin, whereas a Black woman may face prejudice both for being a person of color and for being a woman. Black folks, especially women, often experience even greater pressure in the workplace to assimilate our appearance to match our white counterparts—regardless of the damage it does to our hair and self-esteem.
All this to say: understanding the histories that have shaped the representation of hair in media and in our everyday lives helps broaden our perspective on what influences our thoughts about frizz. With more awareness, hopefully we can quiet the noise and learn to love and embrace our natural selves more fully. Whether you choose to wear shiny, defined curls, a fro, or something in between, it’s all beautiful. Our understanding of beauty should be as inclusive and diverse as we are.
When I say “Normalize Frizz,” this is what I’m getting at. You shouldn’t have to change yourself to feel beautiful. Hair becoming frizzy is as natural as sun-kissed skin becoming tan. Consider wearing your hair fluffy—fluffy hair is awesome. When you have a solid shape, you can wear the shape without relying on perfectly defined curls. Fluff it out. Pick it out. Or wear your curls defined and shiny.
The goal is to feel beautiful in your bare self—to feel like you are the one making the choice, and that the choice empowers you.
Part 2 - In the case of damage
Frizz from damage is created through our lifestyle, routine, product choices, styling choices, and/or chemical service history. When the cuticle layer becomes compromised, it develops more cracks and gaps. In this case, frizz can signal that our hair is in a weakened condition. To manage hair health and improve its overall state, you must determine the culprit behind the damage. Is it the lipid barrier that binds everything together? Is it internal? Is it the exterior—the cuticle layer?
If the issue is internal, products that focus on hydration through lipids and fatty acids will be most effective in repairing a compromised lipid barrier. If the problem lies in the cuticle layer, amino acids and proteins are your answer. Another factor in the outer layer to consider is buildup—in which case, clarifying is the solution. Buildup on the cuticle prevents your products from performing at their best. If you’re not sure, talk to your stylist about what you’re experiencing during your next visit!
As mentioned earlier, there are consumer products you can use at home to maintain hair health, but many of them don’t do much beyond the cuticle layer. Professional-grade products tend to be stronger, which is why only licensed professionals can (and should) use them. Incorrect usage can lead to damage—think of the horror stories involving excessive heat, bleach, relaxers, keratins, perms, etc. Over-processed hair is often irreversible and becomes frizzy and weakened. In this case, we fake it till we make it: we use treatments to preserve what’s left of the hair’s integrity, and styling products to help it appear healthier.
Frizz isn’t the enemy—it’s a natural part of textured hair, a concept shaped by science, history, and aesthetics. Understanding where frizz comes from, whether it’s healthy expression or a sign of damage, gives us the power to make informed choices about our hair instead of reacting from pressure or old beauty standards.
When we recognize the cultural influences that taught us to hide or “tame” frizz, we create space to redefine beauty on our own terms. Whether your hair is shiny and defined, fluffy and voluminous, or anything in between, it’s all valid and beautiful.
Normalizing frizz is really about normalizing you—feeling confident, informed, and free to wear your hair however you choose.
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